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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan - Paperback

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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan - PaperbackA deeply rendered self portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer Barbarian Days is William Finnegans memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world,
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